The second-ever New York Fashion Week: Men’s event, a standalone showcase for American men’s fashion, concluded last week in spectacular ‘fashion’.
With an array of designers showcasing their Fall/Winter 2016 collections at Skylight Clarkson Square in New York City, it was truly a success as well as a bright and exciting indication of the high standard of men’s fashion to be expected in 2016.
Below are some of our favourite collections from the NYFW: Men’s F/W collection.
Nephew of the famous innovator of classic American style and the idealistic American Dream Ralph Lauren, Greg Lauren created a truly unique runway show. With the models featured as boxers, elegantly dancing around in a boxing ring and donning the latest of Lauren’s designs, the inclusion of sport in Lauren’s show engendered a way to challenge the archetypes of masculinity.
The show’s pièce de résistance exemplified a symbol of how “we’re living in a time where everybody’s fighting for something,” Lauren said.
“I’m obsessed with trying to understand where the classic male archetypes fit in in the world.”
Lauren’s show created a façade for the audience to fully immerse themselves in the experience of the show; to feel the set, the characters and, ultimately, the clothing.
Lauren explained that guys often wonder if they could have been a fighter in another life. “It sort of epitomizes an old school ideal of masculinity, but my boxing world is not about the flash or about the money.”
The modern suiting brand making waves across the world has produced their latest Fall/Winter ’16 collection inspired by contemporary artist Mark Rothko at their showroom in SoHo.
On display were hues of blue, navy and blue; traditional designs of windowpane checks that are Saville Row inspired yet finished with voguish touches/mix-matched with contrasting trouser or waistcoat colours, yet enabling room for contemporary styling as such.
Suitsupply have produced a collection that demonstrates and exemplifies attention to detail, styling and fit. The Spring/Summer collection has a specific focus on all three of these aspects and does so quite successfully.
This new collection, however, offers an impressive variety of designs that see tailored pieces, but show that tailored doesn’t always mean a “suit”; the separates on offer such as waistcoats, heavy knits, jackets have been combined with a fantastic base foundation and can be well-coordinated and layered.
Keeping with his classic aesthetic of ‘college prep’ (will it ever go out of style?), Tommy Hilfiger has created a collection that epitomises prep in its truest form (classic stripe shirts, rugby tops, chinos, nautical-style jackets), yet is aimed at a younger demographic, with inspiration to military and nautical vibes.
“We’re offering better fabrications, more interesting detail and a real nod to military and functional details,” Hilfiger said.
“These guys want preppy but they want preppy in a new way, and we’re giving it to them a little bit oversized again.”
Calvin Klein men’s creative director Italo Zucchelli showcased his Fall/Winter collection, which encapsulated men’s evening wear…. in a different light. Zucchelli wanted to promote fun, quirky and flashy outwear for a younger generation of gentlemen. Based off of formal tuxedos and classic evening wear, Zucchelli has used rich fabrics, dark hues, with the sweet juxtaposition of touches of silver, gold, and rose gold metal foil; a vivacious touch to tailored outerwear.
Models wore derby shoes with each look, and the half-naked bodies that permeated the room exemplified a masculine sensuality with this collection. Slightly oversized coats and jackets were also seen, ensconced among clean silhouettes.
“The idea is cool, young evening wear. I wanted to put together outfits like t-shirts with a tuxedo pant and include the metals, to make it more exciting and fashion and fun,” Zucchelli said.
American-Lebanese designer Joseph Abboud paid homage to the idealistic American lifestyle with a stunning collection of dapper suits that were reminiscent of the roaring 20s, but with a fresh touch. Coats with rich fabrics such as suede, tweed and wools were seen amongst playful layering techniques.
Designed and manufactured in the company’s New Bedford factory, the collection was an “ode to American craftsmanship and tailoring,” the designer said.
Suits ranged from pinstripes to tweeds, with a heavy palette of greys and browns used; allowing for traditional menswear patterns flourish in this collection. Outfits were layered with scarves and hats, waistcoats and overcoats. You would almost think that you were in an episode of Boardwalk Empire. A truly inspiring and breathtaking collection, the show marked Abboud’s return to the runway after more than a decade.